Let the stoics say what they please, we do not eat for the good of living, but because the meat is savoury and the appetite is keen.
Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882) U.S. poet, essayist and lecturer.
2 ts Worstershire sauce
2 ts mushroom ketchup
1 ts English mustard powder
2 oz butter; melted
1 pinch cayenne pepper
1 " salt
1 " black pepper; freshly ground
8 lamb's kidneys
1 tbs vegetable oil
1 ts chopped parsley
Mix together the Worstershire sauce, mushroom ketchup, mustard, 1 ounce
butter, cayenne pepper and salt and pepper.
Clean the kidneys by removing
the outer skin and cutting away the core.
Cut each kidney into three or
Heat the remaining butter with the oil in a frying pan and
cook kidneys for 4 to 5 minutes, turning occasionally.
Pour the sauce
mixture over the kidneys and stir for 1 to 2 minutes to coat the kidneys.
Serve on warmed plates, with hot buttered toast.
Place the unsmoked gammon joint (without any packaging) in a large stock pan and cover with cold water.
455g/1lb cod or Huss fillets, skinned and cubed
115g/4oz cooked tiger prawns
55g/2oz plain flour
150ml/¼ pint dry white wine
425ml/¾ pint stock
1 bay leaf
2 tbsp soured cream
1 tbsp parsley, chopped
1 tbsp fresh dill, chopped
4 sliced boiled eggs
900g/2lb potatoes, par-boiled and grated
1-2 carrots, peeled and par-boiled
30g/1oz butter, melted
55g/2oz strong cheddar cheese, grated
1. Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/Gas 7.
2. In a small pan heat the butter, add the flour stirring continuously.
3. Heat the wine, stock, bay leaf and seasoning. Add slowly to the flour mixture, stirring continuously.
4. Add the fish, shellfish,boiled egg slices, soured cream and herbs. Pour into a 1.2 litre/2 pint pie dish.
5. Mix together the potato, carrot, butter and cheese; place on top of the fish sauce.
6. Bake for 30-35 minutes until golden brown.
Heat the butter on high.
Sauté the meat until brown.
Sprinkle the flour on the meat and cook while stirring for 1 to 2 minutes.
In a heavy casserole dish:
Place half of the meat in the bottom,
Add herbs (cumin, tarragon and parsley), onions (cut in fine slices),
Place remainder of the meat on top,
Pour beer over the meat and add enough boiling water just to cover.
Salt and pepper to taste and add thyme and bay leaf,
Cook until boiling.
Mix the vinegar and Honey and add into the dish.
Place lid on casserole dish and put in oven heated to 300 degrees F.
Cook for 2 to 2 1/2 hours
900g British shoulder or leg lamb, cubed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp flour
300ml beef stock
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 tbsp tomato puree
1 bouquet garni
2 bay leaves
450g baby new potatoes, scrubbed
225g baby carrots, trimmed
225g shallots, peeled and left whole
For the herb dumplings:
50g self-raising flour
50g fine breadcrumbs
2 tbsp suet, shredded
Handful parsley, finely chopped
1 tsp rosemary chopped
Preheat the oven to 180C 350F or gas 4. Melt the butter in a large ovenproof casserole dish and add the meat, salt and pepper. Stir well to brown meat on all sides, then remove and set aside.
Add the sugar to the casserole and brown gently to make a caramel. Return the meat to the casserole, add the stout and stir well.
Add the stock, garlic, tomato puree, bouquet garni and bay leaves and stir well again. Cover and cook for one hour.
For the dumplings, mix the flour, breadcrumbs, suet, chopped herbs, seasoning and egg together and, using your hands, roll into walnut-sized balls.
After one hour cooking, remove casserole from the oven, add the potatoes, carrots, shallots and dumplings and return to the oven and cook for a further 40 minutes. Check the vegetables are cooked and then serve.
1 kg/2lb 4 oz middle cut beef fillet, trimmed
¼ bunch of thyme, finely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
500g/1lb 2oz flat field mushrooms, finely chopped
a few drops of truffle oil
1 tbsp finely chopped parsley
English mustard, to taste
500g/1lb 2oz block puff pastry
1 egg, lightly beaten, to seal the pastry
melted butter, to glaze
1. Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4.
2. Season the beef with the thyme, sea salt and pepper and rest for 30 minutes.
3. Heat a pan and sear each side of the beef until golden brown.
4. Allow to cool to room temperature.
5. For the Duxelle, sweat the butter, garlic and mushrooms in a pan over a low heat until all the moisture evaporates.
6. Add the truffle oil and parsley, and season to taste.
7. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
8. Smear the beef with an even coating of English mustard.
9. Lightly dust a sheet of baking paper with flour.
10. Roll the pastry so it is a little wider than the beef, and the beef can be completely rolled in pastry.
11. Place the pastry so the longest half is facing you.
12. Spread the Duxelle mixture evenly over the half of the pastry closest to you.
13. Place the beef on top of the mushroom mix.
14. Roll the beef up in the pastry, leaving a slight overlap of 3cm/1¼in. Brush this with beaten egg and seal.
15. Trim the ends of the pastry so they are flush with the beef.
16. Cut a sheet of baking paper to the size of the beef Wellington.
17. Place the beef Wellington on the paper, lightly brush the top with melted butter and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
18. Put the beef Wellington in the oven and cook for 25 minutes or until dark golden in colour.
1. Crush the lobster heads with a mallet or a rolling pin until they are well broken up.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and cook the onion, carrot and celery over low heat. When the vegetables are lightly browned, add the parsley, thyme and bay leaf and the lobster heads, stirring so that the contents do not stick or burn. After about 5 minutes, stir in the tomatoes, tomato purée and cayenne pepper. Add the brandy and stir well for a minute or two, then add the wine. Bring to the boil and cook for at least 3 minutes.
3. Add the fish stock and veal stock and bring back to the boil. Season lightly with sea salt. Simmer for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally and skimming off the scum that appears on the surface.
4. Drain through a colander set over a large bowl, pressing the lobster bones well to extract all the juices and flavour. Then strain this liquid through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan. Bring to the boil and skim.
5. To serve, bring the soup back to the boil and allow it to reduce by one-third. Add up to 250ml double cream, according to taste, and boil for 5 minutes. Pour 2 teaspoons Armagnac per person into four warmed soup bowls and pour the soup over it. If you have any lobster claw meat available add that too.
6. Sprinkle with cayenne pepper, dress with a little chives and serve immediately.
For the Madeira sauce
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and cook the shallots gently until almost caramelised then allow to cool.
In a large bowl coarsely grate the potatoes. Add the shallots, coriander, vinegar, oil and seasoning.
Mix and form into 4 large flat patties and cook slowly in a large frying pan until golden on both sides.
At the same time, place the salmon fillets in a frying pan and cook for about 3 minutes on each side.
While the fish and rostis are cooking, place the fish stock in a small saucepan over a medium/high heat and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Cook the green beans in boiling water until tender and keep warm.
Stir the cream into the stock and continue reducing until the sauce thickens, then add the capers, gin and seasoning to taste.
To serve, place the rosti on a plate, top with some green beans, then the salmon fillet and spoon over a little caper sauce.
I have chased the English out of France more easily than my father ever did, for my father drove them out by force of arms, whereas I have driven them out with venison pies and good wine.
Said after the signing of the Treaty of Picquigny, Sep.
A street there is in Paris famous,
For which no rhyme our language yields,
Rue Neuve des Petits Champs its name is--
The New Street of the Little Fields.
And here's an inn, not rich and splendid,
But still in comfortable case;
The which in youth I oft attended,
To eat a bowl of Bouillabaisse.
This Bouillabaisse a noble dish is--
A sort of soup or broth, or brew,
Or hotchpotch of all sorts of fishes,
That Greenwich never could outdo;
Green herbs, red peppers, mussels, saffron,
Soles, onions, garlic, roach, and dace:
All these you eat at TERRE'S tavern,
In that one dish of Bouillabaisse.
Indeed, a rich and savory stew 'tis;
And true philosophers, methinks,
Who love all sorts of natural beauties,
Should love good victuals and good drinks.
And Cordelier or Benedictine
Might gladly, sure, his lot embrace,
Nor find a fast-day too afflicting,
Which served him up a Bouillabaisse.
I wonder if the house still there is?
Yes, here the lamp is, as before;
The smiling red-checked ecaillere is
Still opening oysters at the door.
Is TERRE still alive and able?
I recollect his droll grimace:
He'd come and smile before your table,
And hope you liked your Bouillabaisse.
We enter--nothing's changed or older.
"How's Monsieur TERRE, waiter, pray?"
The waiter stares and shrugs his shoulder--
"Monsieur is dead this many a day."
"It is the lot of saint and sinner,
So honest TERRE'S run his race."
"What will Monsieur require for dinner?"
"Say, do you still cook Bouillabaisse?"
"Oh, oui, Monsieur," 's the waiter's answer;
"Quel vin Monsieur desire-t-il?"
"Tell me a good one."--"That I can, Sir:
The Chambertin with yellow seal."
"So TERRE'S gone," I say, and sink in
My old accustom'd corner-place
He's done with feasting and with drinking,
With Burgundy and Bouillabaisse."
My old accustom'd corner here is,
The table still is in the nook;
Ah! vanish'd many a busy year is
This well-known chair since last I took.
When first I saw ye, cari luoghi,
I'd scarce a beard upon my face,
And now a grizzled, grim old fogy,
I sit and wait for Bouillabaisse.
Where are you, old companions trusty
Of early days here met to dine?
Come, waiter! quick, a flagon crusty--
I'll pledge them in the good old wine.
The kind old voices and old faces
My memory can quick retrace;
Around the board they take their places,
And share the wine and Bouillabaisse.
There's JACK has made a wondrous marriage;
There's laughing TOM is laughing yet;
There's brave AUGUSTUS drives his carriage;
There's poor old FRED in the Gazette;
On JAMES'S head the grass is growing;
Good Lord! the world has wagged apace
Since here we set the Claret flowing,
And drank, and ate the Bouillabaisse.
Ah me! how quick the days are flitting!
I mind me of a time that's gone,
When here I'd sit, as now I'm sitting,
In this same place--but not alone.
A fair young form was nestled near me,
A dear, dear face looked fondly up,
And sweetly spoke and smiled to cheer me
--There's no one now to share my cup.
. . . . .
I drink it as the Fates ordain it.
Come, fill it, and have done with rhymes:
Fill up the lonely glass, and drain it
In memory of dear old times.
Welcome the wine, whate'er the seal is;
And sit you down and say your grace
With thankful heart, whate'er the meal is.
--Here comes the smoking Bouillabaisse!
William Makepeace Thackeray
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 250°F.
Arrange bread slices in 1 layer in a shallow baking pan and brush both sides with oil. Bake until crisp, about 30 minutes. Rub 1 side of each toast with a cut side of garlic.
Cook tomatoes, onion, and garlic in oil in cleaned 6- to 8-quart pot over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, peel potatoes and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Stir potatoes into tomatoes with fennel fronds, bay leaf, saffron, sea salt, and pepper. Add stock and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, until potatoes are almost tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add thicker pieces of fish and cockles to soup and simmer, covered, 2 minutes. Stir in mussels, shrimp, crab and remaining fish and simmer, covered, until they are just cooked through and mussels open wide, about 5 minutes.
Stir 3 tablespoons broth from soup into rouille until blended.
Arrange 2 croutons in each of 6 to 8 deep soup bowls. Carefully transfer fish and shellfish from soup to croutons with a slotted spoon, then ladle some broth with vegetables over seafood.
Top each serving with 1 teaspoon rouille and serve remainder on the side.
Ingredients for Rouille
Pour water over bread crumbs in a bowl. Mash garlic to a paste with sea salt and cayenne using a mortar and pestle. Add moistened bread crumbs and mash into garlic paste.
Add oil in a slow stream, mashing and stirring vigorously with pestle until combined well.
Heat oil over medium heat in a large deep skillet. Add ham; brown lightly. Add onions, bell pepper, and garlic; cook until tender. Add tomatoes and tomato paste, water, rice, bay leaf, salt, thyme, and cayenne pepper. Stir and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add shrimp and sliced chorizo and heat through. Serve with crusty garlic bread.
Serves 4 to 6.
For the venison
250g/9oz smoked streaky bacon, pounded thin with a knife handle or rolling pin
1 kg/2lb 2oz venison loin, fat trimmed
1 tbsp olive oil
For the glaze
110ml/4fl oz chicken stock
1 tbsp sloe gin
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the rösti
500g/1lb 2oz old potatoes, grated
500g/1lb 2oz turnip, grated
250g/9oz carrot, grated
50g/2oz butter, melted
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp olive oil
For the parsnip crisps
vegetable oil, for frying
1 parsnip, thinly sliced
150g/5oz sugar snap peas
200g/7oz green beans
olive oil, for drizzling
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. For the venison, cut the loin into medallions about 2cm/¾in thick.
2. Wrap a piece of bacon around the side of each venison medallion, securing with a cocktail stick.
3. Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the venison and fry on each side for about 3-4 minutes, or until cooked to your liking. Remove from the pan and leave to rest on a warm plate.
4. For the blackberry and sloe gin glaze, add the stock to the pan and deglaze, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to incorporate the caramelised meat juices.
5. Add the blackberries and poach for 2-3 minutes, mashing them lightly with the back of a fork.
6. Add the sloe gin and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for a further 2-3 minutes. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
7. For the rösti, mix the grated vegetables together and place in a clean tea towel. Roll the towel tightly into a ball and squeeze out all the water from the vegetables.
8. Break up the ball of vegetables into a bowl and add the melted butter. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and stir well to combine.
9. Press the mixture into a patty about 1cm/½in thick.
10. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and add the rösti. Fry for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden-brown and crisp.
11. For the parsnip crisps, cover the base of a deep sided frying pan with about 3cm/1¼in of vegetable oil. Carefully drop the parsnip slices into the hot oil and fry until golden-brown and cooked through. Drain on kitchen paper.
12. Bring a pan of water to the boil and cook the the sugar snap peas for two minutes and the green beans for 3-4 minutes. Drain and toss with a drizzle of olive oil, salt and freshly ground black pepper.
13. Cut the rösti into four pieces and place a piece in the centre of four serving plates. Top each rösti with the venison, a spoonful of sauce and some parsnip crisps. Place the greens alongside and serve immediately.
oil for frying
275g/10oz onions, chopped
225g/8oz green peppers, chopped
2 sticks celery, chopped
25g/1oz spicy sausage, sliced
25g/1oz smoked pork or bacon, cubed
1 tsp crushed garlic
½ tsp dried oregano
½ tsp dried thyme
1 bay leaf, crumbled
1 tsp salt
1½ tsp cayenne pepper
1½ tsp paprika
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp freshly ground white pepper
1 tbsp Tabasco sauce
300ml/10fl oz puréed fresh tomatoes, strained
crab shells to flavour (optional)
450g/1lb large prawns (reserve the shells and heads for the stock)
1 dozen oysters
225g/8oz crab meat
6 freshwater crayfish
200g/8oz cooked rice to serve
For the fish stock:
fish heads, tails and trimmings
1 stick celery
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs parsley
prawn shells and heads
1. Place all the ingredients for the stock in a large saucepan and cover with about 1.7 litres/3 pints cold water. Simmer for as long as possible - 4 hours if you can manage it - and strain. Set aside.
2. Heat the oil in a large pan, add the onions, green peppers and celery and let them sweat for a few minutes. Add the spicy sausage and smoked pork.
3. Stir in the garlic, herbs, salt and spices.
4. Add the Tabasco sauce, puréed tomatoes and 1.1 litres/2 pints of the fish stock. Simmer for at least 45 minutes.
5. Add crab shells, if you have them, to give a little extra flavour and colour, the prawns, oysters, crab meat, crayfish and Simmer for another 10 minutes.
6. To serve as a main course, place a quarter of the rice in each bowl and top up with Gumbo.
Cut slashes through the skin and fat of each duck breast, making sure you don't cut into the flesh. Rub the duck breasts with the five spice and season well. Heat a little oil in a heavy frying pan and when it is really hot add the duck breasts skin-side down. Turn the heat down a little and fry for 8-10 minutes or until the skin is very crisp and brown and the fat has started to melt out from under the skin. Tip out any excess fat.
Cajun Style Seasoning
Dry spice mixture
Wet spice mixture