orchid

orchid

Friday, September 18, 2009

Salmon and caper sauce

salmon

Ingredients:

  • 100g butter
  • 250g shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
  • ½ x 1kg new potatoes, peeled and par-boiled for 5 minutes then cooled
  • 15g coriander, finely chopped
  • 2 x 15ml spoons cider vinegar
  • 100ml sunflower oil
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 salmon fillets
  • 250g dwarf beans
  • 284ml fish stock
  • 142ml double cream
  • 40g capers, drained and rinsed
  • 15ml spoon gin

Method:

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and cook the shallots gently until almost caramelised then allow to cool.

In a large bowl coarsely grate the potatoes. Add the shallots, coriander, vinegar, oil and seasoning.

Mix and form into 4 large flat patties and cook slowly in a large frying pan until golden on both sides.

At the same time, place the salmon fillets in a frying pan and cook for about 3 minutes on each side.

While the fish and rostis are cooking, place the fish stock in a small saucepan over a medium/high heat and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Cook the green beans in boiling water until tender and keep warm.

Stir the cream into the stock and continue reducing until the sauce thickens, then add the capers, gin and seasoning to taste.

To serve, place the rosti on a plate, top with some green beans, then the salmon fillet and spoon over a little caper sauce.

Louis XI quote


I have chased the English out of France more easily than my father ever did, for my father drove them out by force of arms, whereas I have driven them out with venison pies and good wine.


-Louis XI
Said after the signing of the Treaty of Picquigny, Sep.



The Ballad Of Bouillabaisse

 

The Ballad Of Bouillabaisse

 

A street there is in Paris famous,
For which no rhyme our language yields,
Rue Neuve des Petits Champs its name is--
The New Street of the Little Fields.
And here's an inn, not rich and splendid,
But still in comfortable case;
The which in youth I oft attended,
To eat a bowl of Bouillabaisse.

This Bouillabaisse a noble dish is--
A sort of soup or broth, or brew,
Or hotchpotch of all sorts of fishes,
That Greenwich never could outdo;
Green herbs, red peppers, mussels, saffron,
Soles, onions, garlic, roach, and dace:
All these you eat at TERRE'S tavern,
In that one dish of Bouillabaisse.

Indeed, a rich and savory stew 'tis;
And true philosophers, methinks,
Who love all sorts of natural beauties,
Should love good victuals and good drinks.
And Cordelier or Benedictine
Might gladly, sure, his lot embrace,
Nor find a fast-day too afflicting,
Which served him up a Bouillabaisse.

I wonder if the house still there is?
Yes, here the lamp is, as before;
The smiling red-checked ecaillere is
Still opening oysters at the door.
Is TERRE still alive and able?
I recollect his droll grimace:
He'd come and smile before your table,
And hope you liked your Bouillabaisse.

We enter--nothing's changed or older.
"How's Monsieur TERRE, waiter, pray?"
The waiter stares and shrugs his shoulder--
"Monsieur is dead this many a day."
"It is the lot of saint and sinner,
So honest TERRE'S run his race."
"What will Monsieur require for dinner?"
"Say, do you still cook Bouillabaisse?"

"Oh, oui, Monsieur," 's the waiter's answer;
"Quel vin Monsieur desire-t-il?"
"Tell me a good one."--"That I can, Sir:
The Chambertin with yellow seal."
"So TERRE'S gone," I say, and sink in
My old accustom'd corner-place
He's done with feasting and with drinking,
With Burgundy and Bouillabaisse."

My old accustom'd corner here is,
The table still is in the nook;
Ah! vanish'd many a busy year is
This well-known chair since last I took.
When first I saw ye, cari luoghi,
I'd scarce a beard upon my face,
And now a grizzled, grim old fogy,
I sit and wait for Bouillabaisse.

Where are you, old companions trusty
Of early days here met to dine?
Come, waiter! quick, a flagon crusty--
I'll pledge them in the good old wine.
The kind old voices and old faces
My memory can quick retrace;
Around the board they take their places,
And share the wine and Bouillabaisse.

There's JACK has made a wondrous marriage;
There's laughing TOM is laughing yet;
There's brave AUGUSTUS drives his carriage;
There's poor old FRED in the Gazette;
On JAMES'S head the grass is growing;
Good Lord! the world has wagged apace
Since here we set the Claret flowing,
And drank, and ate the Bouillabaisse.

Ah me! how quick the days are flitting!
I mind me of a time that's gone,
When here I'd sit, as now I'm sitting,
In this same place--but not alone.
A fair young form was nestled near me,
A dear, dear face looked fondly up,
And sweetly spoke and smiled to cheer me
--There's no one now to share my cup.

. . . . .

I drink it as the Fates ordain it.
Come, fill it, and have done with rhymes:
Fill up the lonely glass, and drain it
In memory of dear old times.
Welcome the wine, whate'er the seal is;
And sit you down and say your grace
With thankful heart, whate'er the meal is.
--Here comes the smoking Bouillabaisse!

 

William Makepeace Thackeray

Bouillabaise

bouillabaise

Ingredients

For croutons
  • 12 to 16 (1/2-inch-thick) baguette slices
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 garlic clove, halved

For soup
  • 1 lb crab meat
  • 2 large tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 4 garlic cloves, chopped
  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 lb boiling potatoes
  • 1/3 cup finely chopped fennel fronds
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1/4 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons coarse sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 9 cups white fish stock(or store-bought)
  • 3 pounds white fish fillets (such as monkfish, turbot, red snapper, striped bass, porgy, grouper, and/or cod), cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 1/2 pound cockles or small hard-shelled clams, scrubbed
  • 1/2 pound cultivated mussels, scrubbed and any beards removed
  • 1/2 pound large shrimp in shells
  • Rouille

Preparation

Make croutons:
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 250°F.

Arrange bread slices in 1 layer in a shallow baking pan and brush both sides with oil. Bake until crisp, about 30 minutes. Rub 1 side of each toast with a cut side of garlic.

Make soup:

Cook tomatoes, onion, and garlic in oil in cleaned 6- to 8-quart pot over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, peel potatoes and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Stir potatoes into tomatoes with fennel fronds, bay leaf, saffron, sea salt, and pepper. Add stock and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, until potatoes are almost tender, 8 to 10 minutes.

Add thicker pieces of fish and cockles to soup and simmer, covered, 2 minutes. Stir in mussels, shrimp, crab and remaining fish and simmer, covered, until they are just cooked through and mussels open wide, about 5 minutes.

Stir 3 tablespoons broth from soup into rouille until blended.

Arrange 2 croutons in each of 6 to 8 deep soup bowls. Carefully transfer fish and shellfish from soup to croutons with a slotted spoon, then ladle some broth with vegetables over seafood.

Top each serving with 1 teaspoon rouille and serve remainder on the side.

Ingredients for Rouille

  • 3 tablespoons water
  • 3/4 cup coarse fresh bread crumbs (preferably from a baguette, crust removed)
  • 3 garlic cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • Preparation

    Pour water over bread crumbs in a bowl. Mash garlic to a paste with sea salt and cayenne using a mortar and pestle. Add moistened bread crumbs and mash into garlic paste.

    Add oil in a slow stream, mashing and stirring vigorously with pestle until combined well.

    Oscar Wilde quote

    After a good dinner one can forgive anybody, even one's own relatives.   Oscar Wilde

    Jambalaya

    jambalaya

    Ingredients:
    • 1 1/2 cups diced cooked ham
    • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
    • 1 medium onion, quartered and sliced
    • 1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper, or combination of red and green bell pepper
    • 1 clove garlic, minced
    • 1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes
    • 1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste
    • 2 1/2 cups water
    • 3/4 cup uncooked long-grain rice
    • 1 bay leaf
    • 1/2 teaspoon salt
    • 1/4 teaspoon dried leaf thyme
    • 1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper, or to taste
    • 1 pound peeled, cleaned, and cooked shrimp
    • 1 chorizo sausage, sliced
    Preparation:

    Heat oil over medium heat in a large deep skillet. Add ham; brown lightly. Add onions, bell pepper, and garlic; cook until tender. Add tomatoes and tomato paste, water, rice, bay leaf, salt, thyme, and cayenne pepper. Stir and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add shrimp and sliced chorizo and heat through. Serve with crusty garlic bread.

    Serves 4 to 6.

    Venison and Blackberries

    venison with blackberries

    Ingredients

    For the venison
    250g/9oz smoked streaky bacon, pounded thin with a knife handle or rolling pin
    1 kg/2lb 2oz venison loin, fat trimmed
    1 tbsp olive oil
    For the glaze
    110ml/4fl oz chicken stock
    110g/4oz blackberries
    1 tbsp sloe gin
    salt and freshly ground black pepper
    For the rösti
    500g/1lb 2oz old potatoes, grated
    500g/1lb 2oz turnip, grated
    250g/9oz carrot, grated
    50g/2oz butter, melted
    salt and freshly ground black pepper
    2 tsp olive oil
    For the parsnip crisps
    vegetable oil, for frying
    1 parsnip, thinly sliced
    To serve
    150g/5oz sugar snap peas
    200g/7oz green beans
    olive oil, for drizzling
    salt and freshly ground black pepper

    Preparation

    1. For the venison, cut the loin into medallions about 2cm/¾in thick.
    2. Wrap a piece of bacon around the side of each venison medallion, securing with a cocktail stick.
    3. Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the venison and fry on each side for about 3-4 minutes, or until cooked to your liking. Remove from the pan and leave to rest on a warm plate.
    4. For the blackberry and sloe gin glaze, add the stock to the pan and deglaze, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to incorporate the caramelised meat juices.
    5. Add the blackberries and poach for 2-3 minutes, mashing them lightly with the back of a fork.
    6. Add the sloe gin and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for a further 2-3 minutes. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
    7. For the rösti, mix the grated vegetables together and place in a clean tea towel. Roll the towel tightly into a ball and squeeze out all the water from the vegetables.
    8. Break up the ball of vegetables into a bowl and add the melted butter. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and stir well to combine.
    9. Press the mixture into a patty about 1cm/½in thick.
    10. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and add the rösti. Fry for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden-brown and crisp.
    11. For the parsnip crisps, cover the base of a deep sided frying pan with about 3cm/1¼in of vegetable oil. Carefully drop the parsnip slices into the hot oil and fry until golden-brown and cooked through. Drain on kitchen paper.
    12. Bring a pan of water to the boil and cook the the sugar snap peas for two minutes and the green beans for 3-4 minutes. Drain and toss with a drizzle of olive oil, salt and freshly ground black pepper.
    13. Cut the rösti into four pieces and place a piece in the centre of four serving plates. Top each rösti with the venison, a spoonful of sauce and some parsnip crisps. Place the greens alongside and serve immediately.